o ▓a seat, offered a cigarette, an●d poured out a cup of muddy coffee▓ from a pot over the coals.But food▓ he would not bring forth. While we sat gri●nning spee

chlessly at each other, the tinkle of▓ a bell sounded up the pass.The off▓icer sprang to his feet and hurried ▓down the hill.Not once before ▓had I been called upon

to produce the tes●kereh which the American consul had assu▓red me was indispensable, and a su●spicion that one-half the amount it had c●ost would have sufficed to

b▓lind the officers of the Porte● to its absence grew to conviction at this Th●ermopyl of the Lebanon.A war of w●ords sounded from the highway.I st●epped to the door.The soldier ●and the driver of an overbur

dened ass were scre▓aming at each other in the center ●of the route.When the quarrel had● reached its height, the traveler dropped ▓something into the guardsman’s hand and cont▓inued on his way.The officer clim●bed the hill, smiling broadl●y, “Teskereh, ma feesh!” he cried, “E▓tnane bishleek!” (he had no tes●kereh! Two bishleeks); and he dropped the c▓oins with a rattle into a st●ocking-like purse that was by no m▓e